لصويرة‎,

Essaouira لصويرة‎, (pronounced) eṣ-ṣauīrah

First Impressions: I remember as a young boy growing up in California we spent many family vacations exploring the coast from Baja to Big-Sur and points beyond. On these trips we would often beach comb and wander the shoreline playing and exploring. When it came time to turn back to our camp, I would resist, wanting to see what was around the next corner, or just go a little further to see what lay over the next dune. I had no idea what I was looking for, or hoped to find, and trying to articulate that feeling was something for adults to do; I just felt this magnetic pull, and the need to see what might be there. Not an uncommon impulse. I bring this up because as I walked around the old city walls of this ancient sea port, I got that same feeling, and realized that Essaoira may have been the place I had hoped to find all those years ago, or at least it seemed to be pulled directly from the imaginations of a thousand young adventurers, and made concrete, right here on the Atlantic coast of North Africa.

Essaouira, the history of the city goes back centuries, and I just want to give a nutshell. The Kasbah, or citadel sits along a rocky and sandy shoreline, assaulted by waves. The city walls are crumbling in some places, right into the sea. There were settlements on this spot dating back to antiquity. The Romans grabbed this city because of a valuable purple dye made from sea creatures harvested from its shores. It was a gateway port to Africa and Europe and later the Americas. The Portuguese fortified it and armed it with massive cannon, probably for the slave trade. The Tuareg and Berbers among many other nomadic North African tribes brought their wares here to trade. Despite all of the time that has passed, the city looks and functions much the same as it probably did 300 years ago. It is no wonder to me that this city drew to it people like Jimmy Hendrex and Orson Wells, among many other creative heavyweights. The kids think it is right out of a pirate movie, but real life.

The walled city streets are too small for cars to fit down, so there is only room for pedestrian traffic, hand and donkey carts. The salt air permeates everything. There are probably almost as many cats as there are people living in the city. Our riad was located along the North sea wall of the Kasbah, ocean view and everything. I am not sure I have ever sleaped that close to waves that were as big or as loud as the ones crashing outside our windows, nor am I sure that I have ever had as vivid dreams as I did sleeping there. There was a new moon which meant extreme tides, great for beachcombing and tide pooling. We walked through the main street as the souks were opening one morning, and witnessed hand carts full of live chickens being delivered to the row of butcher shops. The butcher would pick a couple, barter over the price, and proceed to do his “business” with the chickens! No question as to the origin or freshness of the meat we were eating, (circle of life kids! Circle of life!).

The first day of Ramadan began while we were in Essaouira. I feel very lucky and honored, (as well as an outsider) to be traveling in a Muslim country during this holy celebration. Ramadan is a month long observance of the transcription of the Koran. Observant Muslims fast during daylight hours for the entire month. Ramadan is the name of the month, like August, but based on a lunar calendar, not a solar calendar, so it starts at a different time every year. Walking through the souks as sunset neared on the first day of Ramadan is an experience I will never forget. There was an electricity in the air, everyone was running around with groceries and dishes, and huge plates of homemade food. They were gathering with family and friends, making ready to break the fast after sundown. Imagine thanksgiving dinner, if you had not eaten all day and it might come close. The Mosques announce the end of the fast, and the celebrations start and continue long into the night.

Soon we are off to Casablanca, and then back to Spain. Morocco is an amazing country but not for the faint of heart or those who shy away from adventure. As romantic and mysterious as it is, it is also a county lacking in (or approaches in a different way) some basic infrastructure and comforts many people back home take for granted. We had an incredible adventure here and are already planning for our return sometime in the future.